By H. J. Holden
(Reprinted from Recreation. Apr. 1, 1911. by permission of the Editor.)
After making paper models, find a stack cover, a tarpaulin, a tent fly, an awning, or buy some wide cotton cloth, say 90-inch. All the shapes may be repeatedly made from the same piece of material, if the rings for changes are left attached. In Nos. 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, a portion of the canvas is not used and may be turned under to serve as sod-cloth, or rolled up out of the way. If your material is a large piece, more pegs and guy lines will be required than is indicated in the sketches. The suspension ring, 1-1/2 inches or 2 inches in diameter, should be well fastened, with sufficient reinforcement to prevent tearing out; 1-inch rings fastened with liberal lengths of tape are large enough for the pegs and guy lines. Also reinforce along the lines of the strain from peg to pole.
7 x 7 sheet is ample for a one-man shelter; 9 x 9 will house two.
Same in plan as No.3, but has a triangular front and only one point of suspension.
Figure. 4. Same plan as No.3
Square or "miner's" tent. Two corners are turned under. This tent is enclosed on all sides, with a door in front.
Conical tent or "wigwam," entirely enclosed, with door in front. Two corners of the canvas are turned under.
Figure 8. So-called canoe tent. Requires three guy lines,
and can be supported by a rope instead of a pole
If in doubt about the location of rings on your canvas, suspend the tent by the centre ring and fasten the loops temporarily by means of safety pins, draw the tent into shape and shift the fastenings as required. The guy lines should have hooks or snaps at one end for ready attachment and removal; the other end should be provided with the usual slides for "take up." The edge of the cloth where the large ring for suspension is fastened should be bound with tape or have a double hem, for it is the edge of the door in most of the tents shown.